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  1. Whipcrack thunder, lightning and dense tropical rain

    By Farrah 28 Jul ‘08 News

    As I got off the plane, my specs steamed up immediately. The weather gave us a suitably dramatic welcome to this fiery archipelago, home to the largest Muslim population of any country on earth: INDONESIA.

    The massive schlep from Cairo to Jakarta has battered my brain and I almost jumped out of my skin in fright as we passed the baggage carousels, which each feature a sinister, life-size model of a Komodo dragon. Apparently they can even eat horses. I think I'd better get some kip - more from Jakarta tomorrow!

  2. New Featured Osama!

    By Osama HQ 28 Jul ‘08 Featured Osama

    Osama the Celebrity Chef talks to Farrah about dealing with fame and spices and herbs at the "spice academy" in Cairo.

    Frame-185_88_img_440x248Download flash 8 to view

    (4 comments so far)

  3. Transit Islamic: some uncomfortable observations.

    By Farrah 27 Jul ‘08 News

    This zombifying 25 hour journey has not been without a few interesting moments. Earlier, Masood inadvertently stood on the hem of a veiled Muslim lady's black, all-enveloping abaya in the queue for boarding. For about ten minutes she stood still, silently waiting for him to realise his mistake, but wouldn't turn round and tell him. Eventually, another man pointed it out.

    At Singapore, where we had to change planes, I saw the largest proportion of women with headscarves of the whole trip so far. These petite South East Asian ladies wore their hijabs with funk - bright colours, interesting fabrics, jeans and little halterneck or spaghetti strap dresses worn over long sleeved tops. I think lots of them were migrant workers in the Gulf. I liked their style.

    The queue to get through security was immense and snaking. A mature man dressed impeccably in a white robe and headdress in the Emirati way looked up and down the line, identified a section of likely migrant domestic workers from S.E. Asia at the front of the queue and coolly pushed in before them.

    (1 comment so far)

  4. Osama in the cockpit!

    By Farrah 26 Jul ‘08 Osama found

    We're en route to our next exciting destination and currently in transit somewhere in the Middle East. We found a superb Osama entirely unexpectedly on the plane from Cairo - in the cockpit!! Our ears pricked up at the pre-flight announcement. It began with some Quranic recitation invoking God's blessing and protection on the passengers and journey and then introduced captain and crew - Osama was flying the plane!

    With some precision schmoozing and persuasion I managed to meet the delightful First Officer Osama. He couldn't take part in the lovehearts malarkey 'cos of the rules of his job, but he did tell me what he loves: flying people safely to their destinations. There was a certain poignancy about this encounter. I wish I could have talked to him for longer.

    I read an article today about Queen Rania of Jordan who is on a mission to break down negative stereotypes about Arabs and Muslims. I wonder what she'd think of our mission? Maybe I should get in touch with her and see! Let me know what you think.

    (2 comments so far)

  5. No Big Apple

    By Farrah 26 Jul ‘08 News

    Half way through our mission and we are ready to move on from Egypt. However, I’m dismayed to tell you that we’ve had some problems with our ambitious circumnavigation of the globe. There are two crucial destinations that are at the heart of the issues we are gently trying to navigate.

    The first of these is Pakistan. Masood and I are both of Pakistani blood, though born and raised in England. Loads of our home-grown Muslims in the UK are of Pakistani origin and there is no question that the Pakistani connection is vital and personally meaningful to us. As heartbreaking as it is for me to say it, the 7th July bombers had Pakistani roots just like me and Masood. We need to get to Pakistan and connect, somehow. But we’re having some trouble with visas.

    The other destination that I feel we need to make is New York. I don’t need to explain why this great city is important for us to visit – what happened there changed the world and millions of peoples lives. Waves of negativity ensued. In itself, the city of New York is so mixed, so rich, so vibrant and tolerant - I'm desperate to meet the Osamas of NYC. Unfortunately, our official journalists visas to go to the States are being delayed and we may not make it.

    So where to next? Somewhere with lots of Muslims… somwhere completely different to the Middle East. A place with the biggest Muslim population on earth! Can you guess where it is?

    (4 comments so far)

  6. Arab stallions at the 3 pyramids

    By Farrah 25 Jul ‘08 Osama found

    Could you bellydance with candelabra on your head?

    Last night was surreal and spectacular.

    Masood and I had the honour of being invited to a huge Egyptian wedding held on the banks of the Nile. Complete with a troupe of bejewelled - but not skin-baring - bellydancers, the bride and groom entered the room to a cacophony of traditional drumbeats and joyful pipes.

    The captive guests provided us with a prime Osama-hunting opportunity, but I felt Britishly awkward about going for it. It felt rude to Osama-hunt at a wedding! Luckily, the groom’s brother was very enthusiastic and we struck one.

    Only one Osama, however, left me with a sinking feeling. I’m getting worried about numbers, despite having met some cracking characters in Cairo. Then Ramy, our friend, had an idea. He told us that in the summer season when Gulf Arabs visit Cairo, the desert behind the pyramids of Giza is a hotspot of horseriding, dune buggies and general frivolity at the hour of sunrise. So we went to the pyramids at 5am to find some Osamas.

    We found three, including our first Saudi, who was applecheeked, cheerful and very positive about the project. The scene was breathtakingly beautiful and intensely dreamlike – I had to pinch myself.

    Pyramids Dawn Party

  7. Technology is great... When it works!

    By Osama HQ 25 Jul ‘08 News

    For some reason Egypt and Twitter don't seem to be getting along and Farrah is struggling to blog from her mobile. However, Osama HQ can exclusively reveal that last night both Farrah and Masood were invited to a wedding to look for Osamas! It turns out that the wedding went on all night and they ended up watching the sunrise at the pyramids. They're catching up on lost sleep now but promise to be online later today to tell us all about their adventure!

  8. Marketplace Madness!

    By Farrah 24 Jul ‘08 Osama found

    Back in northern Nigeria we established that the market is one of the best places to find Osamas. Having trawled the more touristy sections of Cairo's main market earlier this week, we aimed for somewhere a little grittier today and traversed the glistening model pyramids and scarab pendants to reach chunky silver markets and finally, textiles.

    We found loads of Osamas, but the shouting crowds, grime and heat were intense. People went absolutely nuts as the search gathered momentum. One Osama took us to another Osama who took us to another. This is exactly how we dreamed it would be! The only drawback was that the heckling was massive and it was hard to record. Since I don't speak Arabic, it was hard at times to tell whether the crowd were angry or just really, really excited - it was the latter.

    Several Osamas had left their stalls to pray. The call to prayer over Khan El Khalili from the magnificent entrance mosque was haunting and beautiful as the green minaret lights switched on at dusk.

    My personal favourite Osama from today was the lovestruck Koshary seller who wouldn't reveal the object of his affections by name but was clearly utterly besotted by her. He could think of little else as he fried onions and simmered lentils all day dreamily.

    secret lover

    (4 comments so far)

  9. Where can we try the best traditional Egyptian sweets in Cairo?

    Quick update by Farrah 23 Jul ‘08

    (4 comments so far)

  10. Farrah the "Peace Activist"

    By Osama HQ 23 Jul ‘08 News

    Osama Loves The Sun

    Osama Loves is in the The Sun today!

    The article displays 30 Osamas and gives an entertaining overview of the project.

    I'm not sure Farrah sees herself as a peace activist, but on reflection that is exactly what this project is about.

    Read the full article at The Sun online.

    Well done Farrah and Masood!

    (2 comments so far)